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Pinot Noir Scam Turns Wine World Sideways

Friday, February 19, 2010 by Michal The Joggler Kapral

I’m sure you know the wine: Red Bicyclette Pinot Noir, made by American wine giant Gallo, with a cutesy label depicting, of course, a red bicycle. The orginal label had a French guy sporting a beret and carrying a panier full of baguettes on his red as a dog runs behind holding one of the baguettes in its mouth. Well, it turns out some of that Pinot Noir was probably not, in fact, Pinot Noir. In a French court, 12 people were found guilty of selling falsely labeled wine to Gallo, which was then used to make Red Bicylette.

The defendants received suspended sentences of one month to six months and minimal fines – very light punishment for a fraud that earned each of them up to $750,000. The interesting thing about the story is that there were no complaints from either Gallo or the many, many drinkers of the mass-market Red Bicyclette. The blended wine sold as Pinot Noir was obviously a pretty good fake. In addition, the wine doesn’t claim to be 100% Pinot Noir, although to be considered a Pinot, EU regulations state that it does have to be at least 85%.

This article in the London Telegraph finds some irony in the whole situation since Red Bicyclette was released at the time of the movie Sideways, which had sparked a massive demand for Pinot Noir in the American market. The problem was that there apparently was just not enough cheap Pinot Noir available in the south of the France, where the Bicyclette’s other varietal wines originated.

All in all, quite an impressive feat of blending, I’d say. The scam involved some 13.5 million liters, or 3.6 million gallons, of fraudulent wine, also sold to wine giant Constellation Brands. The “Sideways” effect goes on. Maybe it’s time we cut down on our Pinot Noir and started drinking more f-ing Merlot?







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Australian Pinot Noir

Friday, November 6, 2009 by Michal The Joggler Kapral


My boss Dave (at my other job as a magazine editor) challenged me the other day to try and discern the difference between an $8 Australian Shiraz and a $15 or $20 bottle. He seems convinced that the Aussies have mastered the art of the inexpensive, generic-tasting Shiraz, and that it’s not worth it to move up from the sub-$10 level to spend twice as much for the same type of indistinguishable flavor. I’m not at all convinced that this is the case, so next week I’m going to do a blind tasting to try and figure this out.

In the meantime, I recently tasted a Rosemount non-Shiraz from Australia, based on a grape you don’t often see grown in the country: Pinot Noir. The Rosemount Diamond Label Pinot Noir 2008 (about $9) is a medium-bodied, fruit-forward Pinot designed for easy drinking and it is. If you’re expecting a complex, earthy wine, you’ll have to look elsewhere, but for those who enjoy fruity Pinot Noirs like those from New Zealand, the Rosemount is right on the mark. Luscious strawberry and cherry juice flavors dominate the palette, and a medium-length, smoky finish tapers off with soft tannins. The wine gets an extra point for having a cool bottle.

Quaffability Rating: 88














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Wine Review: Pinot for the People

Tuesday, March 24, 2009 by Michal The Joggler Kapral


Mark West Pinot Noir 2006 - $24

People’s Pinot

The Mark West Pinot Noir 2006 blew me away for a couple of reasons. Most importantly, the wine is delicious, a true-tasting California Pinot Noir with aromas of juicy plum, dark cherry and damp soil. On the palate, the earthiness continues, along with brighter cherry flavors and oak. The balance is exceptional, allowing the full range to flavors to shine through. You can get all of this for $24 (less in some U.S. states). While the label is fairly subdued, the producer has an interesting back-story – and quite a funny website. Using the catchphrase “Pinot for the People,” the winery had been making bargain Pinot Noirs since 2004 by blending premium grapes from different parts of California. Winemaker Alex Cose, who has previously worked with Montevina and Joseph Phelps, clearly has a good hand (and nose) for harmonizing this difficult-to-control grape. This is a great wine to drink on its own.

Quaffability Rating: 91

























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About

Michal Kapral has been enjoying wine at home since way before he was of legal age. The editor-in-chief of Canadian Running magazine runs marathons to burn off all the calories he consumes on wine and cheese. Kapral spent some time living in Italy as a teenager, solidifying his appreciation for all things wine-related. In his days as a journalism student, he was likely one of the youngest – and poorest – subscribers to Wine Spectator magazine. In 1999, Kapral turned down a job at a winery to work at Captivate, where he spent 11 years as a news editor.

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The Quaffer

Highlighting the best new wines from around the world, in the price range of $10-40, Michal "The Quaffer" Kapral reminds viewers some of the finer things in life are most definitely within their reach. This feature focuses on North American wines and includes reviews, food pairings and news from the world of wine.