In this October tour of Italian wine, I’ve covered off a few interesting bottles from Puglia and Sicily. Now, it’s off to the island of Sardinia for the Crabilis Vermentino 1998 (about $11 US, $14 Cdn). Layers of ripe stone fruit, juicy pear and sweet apple mingle with lively unoaked acidity, creating a versatile white that can be appreciated on its own, but could pair up with chicken or whitefish. The Vermentino grape – an ancient variety planted throughout the western Mediterranean – is a welcome change from the norm.

Quaffability Rating: 89